Creative director Kris Van Assche of Berluti takes us inside his special film with an audience

Read time 4 minutes

Courtesy of Kris Van Assche

Kris Van Assche redefines fashion through bold designs and groundbreaking collaborations. This collection blurs the lines between art, identity, and functionality.

Artistic Director Kris Van Assche has once again pushed boundaries by collaborating with video director Antoine Asseraf and creative consultant Yoann Lemoine, also known as Woodkid, to deliver a virtual show experience like no other. This campaign explores the metaphorical and literal act of crossing borders, blending artistry with practicality to create a collection brimming with innovation. “The colour! The cut! The fact that it’s not a tracksuit!” exclaims Van Assche, encapsulating the audacity of this new line.

The collection’s standout features include its chunky Derby shoes, which seamlessly complement the oil-on-water fabric effects seen throughout the collection. Attention to detail is paramount here; these small but significant touches elevate the designs to something extraordinary. “Even the shoes match the artistic vision, proving that beauty lies in the details,” says Van Assche.

Set against the backdrop of a fast-approaching return to normalcy, these bold designs demand to be seen. From Mao-style worker suits in rich coffee hues to modular trench coats crafted to transcend seasons, the collection makes an unapologetic statement. “When you wear this to your first day back at the office, the sartorial energy is undeniable,” muses Asseraf.

The leather bomber jacket, with its patinated finish, stands out as a trans-seasonal staple, offering both style and functionality. Paired with a degrade wool bucket hat and sweater, this ensemble ensures you’re ready for any weather scenario. “Layers like these are not just fashion; they’re a statement of resilience,” Lemoine reflects.

A painterly two-piece set emerges as the sleeper hit of the collection, offering a perfect transition from casual home settings to a professional workspace. The muted, Parisian-inspired tones allow for versatile pairing with other wardrobe staples. “Low-key yet chic, this look commands attention without screaming for it,” Van Assche notes.

Modular elements are another key feature, with coats and suits designed to adapt to changing seasons and occasions. A trench coat finished in an on-trend check pattern is as functional as it is stylish, ensuring wearers are prepared for the unpredictable months ahead. “This trench will be your best friend, proving that utility and elegance can coexist,” shares Russo, the collection’s choreographer.

Courtesy of Kris Van Assche

Adding a futuristic flair, Van Assche integrates chunky accessories like nursery necklaces and platform shoes, challenging traditional gender norms and pushing the envelope of self-expression. These elements invite the wearer to lean into individuality. “It’s not just clothing; it’s an experience in self-definition,” says Querrec, creative consultant assistant.

The show itself is a multi-sensory experience, featuring contributions from a powerhouse team of creatives, including choreographer Etienne Russo and sound designer Frederic Sanchez. Together, they transform the runway into a storytelling medium. “Every piece tells a story, a dialogue between the past and the future,” Lemoine elaborates.

This collaboration is also notable for its engagement with contemporary art, with Lev Khesin’s contributions adding depth to the visuals. Paired with Van Assche’s designs, these artistic touches elevate the collection into a realm where fashion meets fine art. “This is where creativity crosses into new dimensions,” reflects Khesin.

“Fashion should be an act of rebellion—against conformity, against mediocrity, and against the ordinary.” — Kris Van Assche

Van Assche’s styling choices, executed with precision by Mauricio Nardi, capture the collection’s spirit of experimentation. Each look challenges the audience to rethink traditional silhouettes and embrace bolder aesthetics. “Styling isn’t just about clothing—it’s about creating a character,” notes Nardi.

Hair and makeup, helmed by Satoko Watanabe and Joseph Pujalte, further enhance the futuristic appeal. From bold hairstyles to clean, minimalistic makeup, each detail amplifies the collection’s overarching theme. “Hair and makeup complete the vision, tying all elements together seamlessly,” adds Pujalte.

Through this collaboration, Van Assche redefines the purpose of fashion shows, turning them into a dynamic exploration of identity, art, and functionality. By pushing the limits of design, he challenges the industry to innovate further. “Fashion is more than clothing—it’s a reflection of society’s ever-changing narrative,” Van Assche asserts.

In essence, this collection celebrates adaptability and individuality, urging wearers to embrace their uniqueness while pushing the boundaries of tradition. The meticulous craftsmanship and attention to detail highlight the importance of collaboration in achieving artistic excellence. “Creativity thrives when we merge diverse perspectives,” says Asseraf.

As Van Assche and his team demonstrate, fashion is not just about aesthetics but about creating meaningful connections between design and the human experience. This ethos resonates throughout the collection, offering a glimpse into the future of sartorial innovation. “The future of fashion lies in collaboration and breaking barriers,” Lemoine concludes.

The integration of music, choreography, and design creates an immersive experience that feels alive and contemporary. It’s not just about the garments, but how they exist within a carefully curated environment. “Art and fashion are not separate; they are intertwined,” Sanchez affirms.

Courtesy of Kris Van Assche

Moreover, this campaign reflects a growing shift towards sustainable practices, with an emphasis on quality craftsmanship that stands the test of time. By designing pieces meant to last, Van Assche advocates for thoughtful consumerism. “Fashion should inspire, not contribute to waste,” he emphasizes.

The collection also resonates with a sense of nostalgia, drawing from traditional tailoring while reinterpreting it for a modern audience. This balance of old and new showcases Van Assche’s ability to honor the past while moving boldly into the future. “Nostalgia is a lens, not a destination,” adds Querrec.

Van Assche’s vision for crossing borders is not merely physical but metaphorical—challenging norms, exploring identity, and fostering connections through fashion. His collection serves as a reminder that the boundaries of creativity are limitless.

Text by
Kyrie Carlo

Fashion by
Kris Van Assche

Posted
April 8, 2021

Text by
Kyrie Carlo

Fashion by
Kris Van Assche

August 9, 2018

Artistic Director Kris Van Assche collaborates with video director Antoine Asseraf and creative consultant Yoann Lemoine (aka Woodkid) on a virtual show experience devoted to the figurative act of crossing borders. The colour! The cut! The fact that it’s not a tracksuit! There is so little not to love about the looks. Even the chunky Derby shoes match the oil-on-water effect and for that attention to detail, Mr Van Assche, we salute you. Set the tone of things to come by wearing this for your first day back at the office – your colleagues will thank you for the shot of sartorial energy it will provide, and, if not, screw ’em, you look great! If you’re still not quite ready to go the whole hog with lapels and cuffs etc, you could do worse than opt for something like this Mao-style worker suit cut from wool and cashmere in the colour of depleted coffee grounds.

The chunky nursery necklace and platform shoes add a pleasingly futuristic effect we advise you lean in to, It’s still cold, which means that despite the fact that pub gardens reopen next week, you’re going to need to focus on smart-yet-stylish insulation for the foreseeable. Enter, Van Assche’s excellent trans-seasonal patinated leather bomber jacket, which you can wear right now and in the evenings when the weather gets warmer. Oh, and the degrade wool bucket hat and sweater will provide a fun, extra layer of protection until the mercury begins rising again. One more round?

A modular trench coat is going to be your best friend for the next few months and you’ll be able to wear this pipe-seamed option, finished in on-trend check, all the way through summer and beyond. Team with a T-shirt as the weather warms up and with knitwear when things cool down again. The weatherproof element will also prove useful with all the outdoor living we’re set to be doing in the foreseeable. This slouchy, painterly two-piece is the perfect look to take you from your sofa to the office in the next few months. Low-key and chic in that specifically Parisian way, yet surprisingly adaptable – given that the muted shades will work with most others – wear together or as separates and own every room you walk into. Be bold, man! Now is the moment.

Artistic Direction by Kris Van Assche in collaboration with: Antoine Asseraf. Video Direction by Olivier Casamayou. Choreography by Etienne Russo. Show Design by Villa Eugénie. Production by The Stimuleye. Video Production by Frederic Sanchez. Sound Design by Yoann Lemoine. Creative Consultant assisted by Ronan Querrec. Styling by Mauricio Nardi. Casting by Piergiorgio Del Moro. Make-up by Satoko Watanabe. Hair by Joseph Pujalte. Artwork by Lev Khesin. Contemporary Artist Music ‘Behind the wheel’ (Martin Gore) © EMI Music Publishing Ltd.

Berluti By & Large Design Kris Van Assche Philosophy Unique Perspectives

Here & Now

Dissenting from reality: Meet Mua Sabu Suzuki and Photographer Mika Kailes

Read time 4 minutes

Text by
Kaden Mason

Photography by
Mika Kailes

Posted
March 30, 2024

Photography by Mika Kailes.

Make-up is more than a beauty ritual; it’s a reclamation of identity, a rebellion against the predetermined, and a medium for expression.

In a world that is often preoccupied with conventional beauty standards, make-up has become more than just a tool for enhancing appearance—it has evolved into a form of rebellion, a medium for storytelling, and a catalyst for self-discovery. For 21-year-old make-up artist Sabu Suzuki, the transformative power of make-up transcends its surface-level appeal. Swedish-born and London-based, Suzuki’s artistry is bold, intentional, and disruptive, challenging societal norms and redefining what it means to be beautiful in an era of conformity.

Suzuki’s recent collaboration with photographer Mika Kailes is a testament to his unique approach to the craft. Together, they have created a series of striking images that capture the fluidity of identity and the interplay between light and texture. Each look tells a story that resonates on both a personal and universal level. For Sabu, make-up is not just about painting faces—it’s about bringing inner truths to life and celebrating individuality in its most unapologetic form.

But Sabu’s journey hasn’t been without challenges. From navigating a competitive industry to overcoming personal struggles, he has faced moments of doubt and uncertainty. Yet, through it all, he has remained steadfast in his belief that make-up is a powerful medium of expression. “Make-up,” he says, “is not about hiding who you are—it’s about revealing who you want to be.”

As we sit down for this conversation, Sabu reflects on his beginnings, inspirations, and the philosophies that drive his work. With a laugh as vibrant as his creations, he welcomes us into his world—a space where art meets identity, and where every brushstroke is an act of self-empowerment.

Photography by Mika Kailes.

Kaden: Can you recall the first time you did someone’s make-up? What was the experience like?

Sabu Suzuki: Oh, absolutely! It’s seared into my memory—partly because it was such a disaster but also because it was a pivotal moment for me. I remember using this drugstore foundation that was completely the wrong shade and piling it on like I was frosting a cake. The end result wasn’t pretty, but there was something magical about the process. It was the first time I felt the thrill of transforming someone’s appearance, even if I didn’t quite know what I was doing. I think those early attempts are crucial—they teach you to embrace imperfection and to keep experimenting until you find your voice. Looking back, I realize that the heart of what I do now was already there in those clumsy moments: the desire to tell a story and create something meaningful.

Kaden: Why do you believe make-up is important in today’s world? It feels like people have very polarized opinions about it.

Sabu Suzuki: That’s such a loaded question, but I love it because it gets to the heart of why I do what I do. Make-up is important because it’s one of the few art forms that’s accessible to almost everyone. You don’t need a gallery or a platform to make an impact—you just need a face and some imagination. At the same time, it’s also a deeply personal thing. For some, it’s a way to express joy or creativity; for others, it’s a shield or a source of confidence. What’s fascinating to me is how polarizing it can be. Some people see it as empowering, while others see it as superficial. I think both perspectives miss the point. Make-up isn’t about vanity or conformity—it’s about choice. It’s about taking control of how you present yourself to the world, and in that sense, it’s incredibly powerful.

Photography by Mika Kailes.

Kaden: When did you know that make-up was going to be more than just a hobby for you?

Sabu Suzuki: That realization hit me like a ton of bricks during one of the hardest periods of my life. I was going through a lot emotionally and felt completely disconnected from myself. One day, almost on a whim, I started playing with make-up. It wasn’t for a job or a look—I was just painting my face to see if I could create something that felt alive. That process became my therapy. It helped me reconnect with parts of myself that I thought were lost. Over time, I started to see make-up not just as a coping mechanism but as a calling. It became clear to me that this was what I was meant to do—not just for myself but for others, too.

Kaden: How do you view make-up as an art form? A lot of people still see it as something trivial or surface-level.

Sabu Suzuki: I completely disagree with that mindset. Make-up is one of the most dynamic art forms because it’s alive. Think about it: you’re working on a canvas that breathes, emotes, and changes with every passing moment. That’s what makes it so exciting—and also so challenging. You’re not just creating something to look at; you’re creating something that interacts with the world. For me, make-up is about transformation, not just in a physical sense but on an emotional and spiritual level, too. It’s about taking what’s inside and bringing it to the surface in a way that feels authentic and powerful.

“Make-up isn’t just an accessory—it’s a declaration of freedom. It’s the power to rewrite your story and embrace the beauty of becoming.” — Sabu Suzuki

Photography by Mika Kailes.

Kaden: Your work feels deeply personal. How do you navigate creating something that resonates with your own story but also connects with others?

Sabu Suzuki: That’s a balance I’m always trying to strike. My work is undeniably rooted in my personal experiences—my struggles, my identity, and even my joys. But what I’ve learned is that the more specific you get, the more universal it becomes. People see their own stories in your honesty. When I create a look, I’m not just thinking about what it means to me; I’m thinking about how someone else might interpret it. It’s like planting a seed and letting others grow their own meaning from it. That’s the beauty of art—it becomes a shared experience.

Kaden: Have you ever felt pressure to conform to certain beauty trends or standards, especially in the industry?

Sabu Suzuki: Oh, absolutely. The beauty industry is full of unspoken rules and trends that you’re “supposed” to follow. But honestly, I’ve never been interested in playing by those rules. Early in my career, I felt that pressure to create looks that were “trendy” or “marketable,” but it didn’t feel authentic to me. I realized I’d rather be known for doing something unique—even if it’s polarizing—than for creating work that looks like everyone else’s. The way I see it, trends come and go, but authenticity lasts forever.

Photography by Mika Kailes.

Kaden: What inspires you when you’re working on a new look or concept? Do you draw from specific sources?

Sabu Suzuki: Inspiration is everywhere if you’re open to it. I get ideas from the most random things—like the way light hits a cracked mirror or the texture of peeling paint on a wall. Music plays a huge role, too. Sometimes a single song can inspire an entire look. And of course, people inspire me—how they move, how they express themselves, how they carry their stories in their faces. I think the most exciting part of being an artist is that you never run out of things to be inspired by. The world is a giant mood board if you pay attention.

Kaden: What advice would you give to someone who’s just starting out as a make-up artist but feels overwhelmed by the competition?

Sabu Suzuki: First of all, it’s okay to feel overwhelmed—that’s normal. But don’t let it paralyze you. The best advice I can give is to focus on finding your own voice. It’s tempting to look at what others are doing and try to emulate that, but the only way to stand out is to be true to yourself. Experiment, make mistakes, and don’t be afraid to create something that feels “wrong” by industry standards. Some of the most groundbreaking work comes from people who dared to do things differently. And remember, your journey is yours alone—don’t compare your chapter one to someone else’s chapter ten.

Photography by Mika Kailes.

As our conversation winds down, it’s clear that Sabu Suzuki is not just a make-up artist—he’s a visionary. His work challenges conventional ideas about beauty, art, and identity, inviting us to see make-up as a tool for empowerment and self-expression. Through his bold creations, he encourages us to embrace imperfection and celebrate individuality.

Sabu’s journey is a reminder that art can emerge from the most unexpected places. Whether it’s inspired by a moment of personal struggle or the mundane patterns of everyday life, his work proves that beauty is everywhere if you’re willing to look for it. His collaboration with Mika Kailes is a shining example of how make-up can transcend its traditional boundaries, becoming a medium for storytelling and connection.

But perhaps the most profound takeaway from Sabu’s story is his unwavering belief in the power of choice. “Make-up,” he says, “is not about conforming to someone else’s standards. It’s about creating your own rules and living by them. It’s about taking control of your narrative and saying, ‘This is who I am.’”