Always evolving the identity of Versace – the fashion house, and Donatella herself in our current moment

Read time 4 minutes

Courtesy of Versace..

The Autumn/Winter 2020 collection reflects resilience, inclusivity, and an unwavering sense of community. As the world faced unprecedented challenges, Donatella Versace’s designs and perspective became more timely than ever.

Fashion is often seen as a mirror reflecting society’s complexities, and few embody this connection better than Donatella Versace. Her Autumn/Winter 2020 collection debuted in Milan just days before the Covid-19 pandemic ravaged the city. The collection featured bold, modern interpretations of medieval armor—a symbolic shield for the battles of an uncertain world. Although initially intended as a statement on strength and resilience, the collection has since taken on deeper meaning as the world navigates ongoing crises of health, equality, and social justice.

The collection marked a turning point not just for Versace but for the fashion industry as a whole. In a time of uncertainty, Donatella crafted a message of empowerment and defiance, with designs that felt as much like armor for the soul as they were pieces of clothing. The timing was almost prophetic, coinciding with an unprecedented global upheaval that left people searching for strength and connection.

Speaking in an interview conducted in May, months after the collection’s debut, Donatella shared insights that feel prescient in hindsight. Her reflections addressed LGBTQ+ rights, systemic racism, and the unifying power of fashion during one of the most challenging times in modern history. With her designs and her words, Donatella continues to advocate for individuality, empowerment, and inclusivity—values central to both her life and her work.

Kaden: When it comes to difficulties, do you feel that you, as a designer, propose clothes to fight in or clothes as a flight of fantasy, an antidote to reality? Which do you find more powerful?

Donatella Versace: I believe both have their place, depending on what each person needs at a given moment. Sometimes we need armor to face the challenges of life, and sometimes we need the escape of a dream. My goal has always been to create clothes that make people feel confident and comfortable in their own skin. What could be more powerful than feeling truly yourself, no matter what the world throws at you?

The conversation naturally turned to the “fight or flight” sentiment resonating in many Winter 2020 collections. For Donatella, this theme was deeply personal, reflecting the societal pressures faced by marginalized communities.

Donatella explained that the inspiration behind her designs often stems from a desire to empower those who feel unseen or unheard. Fashion, for her, is not just about aesthetics but about creating a platform for self-expression and social commentary. She sees clothing as both a shield and a statement—a way for people to confront the world with confidence and grace.

Kaden: Many Winter 2020 collections seemed to express a “fight or flight” response to the state of the world. Was this something you were conscious of while designing your Autumn/Winter 2020 collection?

Donatella Versace: Without a doubt. We live in a society where many people—women, people of color, the LGBTQ+ community—have been in a constant state of struggle for acceptance and equality. This underlying fear of being unable to express oneself freely is something I’ve always wanted to challenge. It’s why I’ve consistently used my platform to push for diversity, inclusivity, and freedom of expression. Fashion has the power to confront societal issues, and that’s a responsibility I take seriously.

Donatella spoke candidly about how the global pandemic reshaped her perspective, even as her creative vision remained steadfast.

Kaden: Looking back now, do you view your Autumn/Winter 2020 collection differently?

Donatella Versace: In some ways, yes, and in others, no. My vision has always been clear—I design with purpose and intention. Fashion doesn’t exist in a vacuum; it reflects the society that creates it. The lockdowns and the loss of basic freedoms forced all of us to reevaluate what truly matters. While I wouldn’t change what I designed, I do feel that the clothes I’m creating now reflect a deeper awareness of the world we’re living in today.

“Fashion is not just about clothing; it’s about connection and expression. Through unity and individuality, we can create the better world we all deserve.” – Donatella Versace

The idea of community has always been central to Versace, but Donatella revealed how the pandemic deepened her understanding of this concept.

She spoke passionately about the sense of unity that emerged during the crisis. Donatella noted how acts of generosity, from healthcare workers to everyday people, highlighted the strength of collective humanity. This realization reaffirmed her belief that fashion can serve as a unifying force, bringing people together through shared experiences and values.

Kaden: Versace has always represented a sense of community. How has that evolved in a time when people can’t gather in the ways we’re used to?

Donatella Versace: The pandemic revealed just how strong our sense of community truly is. Isolation brought out an incredible spirit of solidarity and generosity. At Versace, we’ve always been a “clan,” but this moment has broadened that feeling to encompass so much more. We’ve witnessed extraordinary acts of kindness and selflessness, from front-line workers saving lives to neighbors supporting each other. It’s a reminder that we’re stronger together, and I hope this sense of unity endures long after the crisis has passed.

Courtesy of Versace..

Donatella also discussed the role of craftsmanship in shaping the future of fashion, emphasizing the importance of authenticity and quality.

She highlighted how the pandemic has changed consumer values, with people increasingly seeking meaningful, well-crafted pieces. For Donatella, this shift aligns perfectly with her philosophy of creating timeless, high-quality designs that resonate on a personal and emotional level.

Kaden: How important is craftsmanship in this new reality?

Donatella Versace: Craftsmanship has always been essential, but it’s even more critical now. People are seeking meaning and value in what they choose to buy. As designers, it’s our responsibility to create pieces that resonate deeply and stand the test of time. I believe that authenticity, superior quality, and sustainability will define the future of fashion. These are the values that inspire me to create clothing that stops people in their tracks and makes them say, “I want that.”

The designer’s reflections on dreaming revealed her belief in fashion as a uniquely transformative medium. She explained how clothing serves as a tool for self-expression and empowerment, allowing individuals to shape their identity and tell their stories. Donatella’s designs aim to inspire confidence and imagination, reminding people of the joy and freedom that fashion can bring.

Kaden: How important is the idea of dreaming in fashion?

Donatella Versace: Dreaming is at the heart of what fashion is all about. Even the simplest outfit carries an element of aspiration. Every choice we make—what we wear, how we present ourselves—sends a message about who we are or who we want to be. Fashion allows us to explore, transform, and express ourselves in ways nothing else can. It’s a form of storytelling that’s as personal as it is universal.

Courtesy of Versace..

When asked what message her Autumn/Winter 2020 collection conveys in today’s context, Donatella’s response was both timely and timeless. Her words encapsulated the essence of her work: resilience, unity, and the power of individuality. For Donatella, fashion is not just about clothing; it’s about creating a platform for connection, expression, and change.

The Autumn/Winter 2020 collection stands as a testament to the enduring strength of the human spirit. Through bold designs and thoughtful messaging, Donatella reminds us that fashion can inspire hope and bring people together, even in the most challenging times.

Kaden: If your Autumn/Winter 2020 collection could convey one message to the world, what would it be?

Donatella Versace: Stand united. Only together can we create the better world we all deserve. – Donatella Versace

Text by
Kaden Mason

Photography by
Jason Lloyd Evans

Posted
June 30, 2020

Text by
Kaden Mason

Photography by
Jason Lloyd Evans

August 9, 2018

Donatella Versace always looks forward, keying not only her clothes but her points of view to successive generations, and always evolving the identity of Versace – the fashion house, and Donatella herself. Her Autumn/Winter 2020 collection was shown in Milan in February, unbeknownst to all on the eve of the weekend when the global Covid-19 pandemic would hit that city, becoming one of the worst affected regions in Europe. In that show, Versace dressed women in modern takes on medieval armour: a shield against the slings and arrows of the world. Little did we all realise how much we’d need those in the coming months.

Drawn from an email interview completed in May, Donatella Versace’s comments on the moment we were living through are remarkably prescient. They touch on both LGBTQ+ rights – ahead of not only the 2020 pride month, but June’s landmark US Supreme Court ruling protecting the rights of LGBTQ+ workers against discrimination‎ – and the systemic racism that has inspired ongoing global protests for change.

All clothing by Versace.

Kaden: When it comes to difficulties, do you feel that you, as a designer, propose clothes to fight in, or clothes as a flight of fantasy, an antidote to reality? Which do you find more powerful?

Donatella: I find it to be more powerful for this to be applied to whatever each one of us needs in that specific moment. We are not all the same and we are not going through the same moments in life. I think that I have always wanted to create clothes that makes you feel at ease in your own skin and confident. What could be more powerful than that?

Kaden: Many of the winter collections seem to have been, in retrospect, showing that “fight or flight” response to the state of the world – as the Covid-19 pandemic had only just begun to sweep through the world. Was that something you were aware of, when devising your Autumn/Winter 2020 collection? A feeling you could sense?

Donatella: We have been living in a society in which you were in a constant fight. Especially for certain groups of people: women, people of colour, the LGBTQ+ community. This feeling of fear, of living in a world in which you cannot express yourself because you had to adhere to an image that someone else decided for you so that you could belong, has been there for a while and that is why I have always lent my voice to raise awareness about issues like diversity, inclusivity, freedom of expression and the hate crimes against people whose only fault is that they were born the way they are. I think this is unacceptable.

All clothing by Versace.

Kaden: Looking back now – in very different circumstances to how the collection was created – do you view your clothes differently? Do you see the message differently?

Donatella: Yes and no. From a certain perspective, I have always had a strong point of view. People may like it and agree with it or not, but my vision of fashion has always been clear. From another, fashion mirrors the society that creates it, it does not live in a vacuum. The months of lockdown, the social distancing, the fact that we were deprived of our basic freedoms for such a long time – and it is not over yet – made me look at things from a different perspective obviously. I do not know if I would have designed something else. I think you do what you do when you do it as there is no way of knowing what’s going to happen tomorrow. At the same time, today there’s no point discussing what you did three months ago before having gone through what we did. What I can tell you is that the clothes I am designing today are different. This is not a matter of me saying that what we did six months ago was wrong or right, we were simply living a different society.

Kaden: Craft and community are essential to fashion – I always feel that your work is so much about a community, a group, an ideology. What does that represent now, at a time when people cannot be together in ways we are used to?

Donatella: To be honest with you, I have never felt a stronger sense of community than in these months of social isolation and lockdown. If there is a silver lining in what we have experienced is that it brought out such a strong sense of community. An understanding that united and together we are stronger and that by helping others you create a better world for yourself, too. I have not felt that in many years. Versace has always been about being united, being a “clan”, that’s true, but now this feeling has cascaded down to everyone. I witnessed gestures of generosity and selflessness like I have rarely seen before. The fact that we all recognised and applauded the incredible work of the doctors, nurses and everyone else who is fighting on the front lines to save thousands of lives is touching. New heroes were born, and I hope that their sacrifice and hard work will not be forgotten when this is over.

All clothing by Versace.

Kaden: And how important is craft in times like this? I wonder if this is a moment when a sense of the human hand in clothes is more powerful than ever before?

Donatella: It’s always been important, but I think for the future it is going to be even more important. The task of us designers is to understand people’s desires and even if right now I am still analysing all that has happened and the effects that it is going to have on everyone’s lives. I believe that values like higher craftsmanship, superior quality, sustainability and authenticity will play a big role. People will look for something special and therefore it will be important to have a strong message and a clear point of view. To create something that makes you stop in your tracks and say, “Wow! I want that!”

All clothing by Versace.

Kaden: How important is the idea of dreaming, to fashion?

Donatella: Fashion has always been about dreaming. Even if, as a designer, you want to create clothes that can be worn in your everyday life, there’s always been a component to it that makes you dream, and I’m not just talking about the fabulous set-up of a fashion show or picture. Quite simply, what you decide to wear every day is never a casual choice. It always sends a message whether you are aware of it or not. Whether you want it to or not. People love to play with clothes and their image. A certain piece of clothing could make someone feel different, stronger or more sensual, and I find this so fascinating. Each of us can come across so uniquely even if wearing the same dress every day. Only fashion can do that.

Kaden: If your Autumn/Winter 2020 collection could convey one message, now, to the world, what would you like that message to be?

Donatella: Stand united. Only together we can win.

By & Large Design Donatella Versace Film Philosophy Unique Perspectives

By & Large

With that barely-there chiffon and bold prints, Kim fuses Fendi’s past with its future

Read time 5 minutes

Text by
Kaden Mason

Photography by
Fendi

Fashion by
Kim Jones

Posted
June 25, 2022

Courtesy of Fendi

Kim Jones' Fendi AW22 collection is a testament to the beauty found in blending contrasting elements

In the ever-evolving landscape of high fashion, designers are continually challenged to push the boundaries of creativity while honoring the rich heritage of iconic fashion houses. Kim Jones, renowned for his innovative vision and meticulous craftsmanship, unveiled his highly anticipated Autumn/Winter 2022 collection for Fendi, sending ripples of excitement through the fashion world.

Jones’ collection is a study in contrasts, where hard meets soft, winter intertwines with summery motifs, and vibrant colors collide with neutral hues. Each garment serves as a testament to Jones’ masterful ability to harmonize seemingly disparate elements, creating a cohesive and visually arresting aesthetic.

At the heart of Jones’ collection lies a commitment to timeless elegance, embodied in every meticulously crafted piece. From sharply tailored jackets to flowing chiffon trousers adorned with delicate ruffles, each garment exudes an understated sophistication that transcends fleeting trends.

Courtesy of Fendi

Jones draws inspiration from the rich history of Fendi, delving into the brand’s archives to unearth hidden gems from pivotal moments in its evolution. By reinterpreting archival designs through a contemporary lens, Jones pays homage to the brand’s storied legacy while injecting a fresh perspective into each creation.

Central to Jones’ creative vision is a nod to the visionary work of Karl Lagerfeld, Fendi’s legendary former creative director. Drawing inspiration from Lagerfeld’s iconic collections, Jones infuses his designs with elements of Lagerfeld’s bold aesthetic, resulting in a collection that seamlessly bridges the past and the present.

Jones’ collection blurs the lines between fashion and art, with each garment serving as a canvas for his creative expression. From bold prints to intricate detailing, every aspect of the collection reflects Jones’ keen eye for design and his unwavering commitment to craftsmanship.

In reimagining traditional menswear silhouettes for the modern woman, Jones empowers his audience to embrace their individuality and express themselves through fashion. From tailored coats to structured suits, each piece in the collection exudes confidence and sophistication, empowering women to command attention with every step.

“Contradictions fuel creativity in fashion. Kim Jones’ Fendi AW22 collection beautifully merges opposites, creating a harmonious symphony of style.”

While Jones’ collection pays homage to traditional menswear tailoring, it also celebrates the inherent femininity of the female form. Flowing dresses and ethereal chiffon fabrics evoke a sense of softness and sensuality, creating a harmonious balance between masculine and feminine elements.

Jones’ collection serves as a testament to the enduring power of innovation and tradition in fashion. By seamlessly blending historical references with contemporary design elements, Jones pushes the boundaries of traditional fashion norms, creating a collection that feels both familiar and refreshingly new.

Courtesy of Fendi

At the core of Jones’ collection lies a commitment to craftsmanship and attention to detail. Each garment is meticulously constructed using the finest materials and techniques, resulting in pieces that are as luxurious as they are timeless.

As spectators behold Jones’ collection, they are invited on a journey through time, where past and present converge in a mesmerizing display of sartorial excellence. Each garment tells a story, weaving together elements of history, culture, and innovation to create a narrative that is uniquely Fendi.

Courtesy of Fendi

Jones’ collection reflects a melting pot of influences, drawing inspiration from diverse cultures and artistic movements. From the bold prints of Lagerfeld’s Memphis Group-inspired collection to the timeless elegance of Fendi’s archival designs, each piece reflects a fusion of cultures and perspectives.

With his Autumn/Winter 2022 collection for Fendi, Kim Jones reaffirms his status as a visionary force in the world of fashion. By pushing the boundaries of creativity and innovation, Jones challenges conventional notions of beauty and style, leaving an indelible mark on the fashion landscape.

In addition to its aesthetic brilliance, Jones’ collection also embodies Fendi’s commitment to sustainability and ethical fashion practices. From sourcing eco-friendly materials to implementing environmentally conscious production methods, Fendi remains at the forefront of the sustainable fashion movement.

As Jones’ collection makes its debut on the global stage, it marks the continuation of Fendi’s storied legacy and its ongoing commitment to excellence. With each impeccably crafted garment, Jones pays homage to the brand’s illustrious past while paving the way for a bold and exciting future. In conclusion, Kim Jones’ Autumn/Winter 2022 collection for Fendi is a triumph of creativity, craftsmanship, and innovation. From its bold contrasts to its timeless elegance, each garment reflects Jones’ unparalleled vision and his unwavering dedication to pushing the boundaries of fashion. As the fashion world eagerly awaits the next chapter in Fendi’s storied history, one thing is certain: Kim Jones’ legacy will endure for generations to come.