Bella and Gigi Hadid debuted with shaved heads at Marc Jacobs’ latest runway presentation in NYC

Read time 4 minutes

All clothing by Marc Jacobs.

In the face of a tumultuous world, Marc Jacobs’ AW22 collection serves as a vibrant call to take up space and embrace resilience. Through dramatic silhouettes and avant-garde materials, Jacobs creates fashion that challenges societal constraints and celebrates individuality.

Last season, Marc Jacobs’ vision of a post-atomic glamazonia had models in frayed monastic skirts, shredded column dresses, and hulking duvet jackets. The mood was grim, almost apocalyptic, with Bella Hadid, Gigi Hadid, and Anok Yai embodying statuesque figures, frozen in place as if a harsh wind had battered their bodies. Their poses exuded a sense of fatalism, drawing from the destructive forces of a world in chaos. Yet, as Jacobs returns to the runway for Autumn/Winter 2022, he offers a marked shift—one of optimism, color, and resistance against the pervasive pessimism surrounding us.

Marc Jacobs’ AW22 collection stands in stark contrast to the bleak palette and threatening silhouettes of last season. This time around, Jacobs swaps out muted, desolate tones for brighter hues, embracing a world of baby pinks, tranquil turquoises, serene lavenders, and refreshing limes. These lively colors inject a much-needed sense of optimism into the fashion landscape, representing a forward-looking view that defies the darkness of current events. Where his last collection felt wrapped in the melancholic fabric of a broken world, this collection celebrates life, hope, and the possibility of a better tomorrow.

Despite this shift towards brighter tones, Jacobs doesn’t abandon his signature aesthetic. The same built-up silhouettes return, enveloping the body in bulbous shapes and amorphous structures that dominate the wearer’s frame. Wrap-around sleeves and exaggerated bustles create a visual language of power, making a bold statement that rejects traditional norms of fashion and beauty. The garments are not merely clothes but sculptures, each piece commanding space and attention, almost as if daring the world to look away. While the shapes evoke a sense of battle-ready resilience, they also appear as a response to the fragile reality Jacobs recognizes in the world.

All clothing by Marc Jacobs.

The models for AW22 wear their looks with a sense of defiance, sporting harsh undercuts and towering Mary Jane platforms that push the boundaries of fashion’s typical femininity. These sharp, punk-inspired hairstyles paired with shoes that defy gravity transform the models into icons of strength and rebellion. In previous seasons, Jacobs’ designs have often flirted with softness and vulnerability; here, however, he shifts into a more confrontational tone. The towering platforms and severe cuts challenge the audience to consider not just the clothing, but the boldness and individualism of the wearer.

Jacobs quoted German philosopher Friedrich Nietzsche in an accompanying statement, saying, “We share our choices in contrast to the ongoing brutality and ugliness of a world beyond our insulated but not impermeable walls. We have art in order not to die of the truth.” This philosophical underpinning speaks volumes, framing fashion not just as an aesthetic pursuit, but as an act of survival. With the world teetering on the edge of political and social upheaval, Jacobs argues that fashion, as a form of art, is crucial to maintaining one’s sense of self amid the chaos. The collection becomes a powerful statement that fashion is not only a personal expression but a way to resist and persist in turbulent times.

The political climate during the development of AW22 was charged with tension, especially with the controversial reversal of Roe v. Wade and threats to other essential rights such as contraception and marriage equality. Jacobs’ collection can’t help but reflect this societal instability. The decision to embrace brighter colors and larger-than-life silhouettes feels like a direct counter to these regressive political forces, as if Jacobs is saying, “We will not shrink. We will not hide.” The collection serves as both a visual response to these challenges and a call for solidarity in the face of ongoing battles for freedom.

One of the most striking elements of the AW22 collection is Jacobs’ encouragement to “take up space.” From jumbo-stuffed sweaters to oversized gowns, every piece in the collection seems designed to force its wearer into a position of prominence, commanding attention and space in the world. This isn’t fashion made to fit into the background—it is fashion that asserts itself. In a society where many are told to minimize their presence, Jacobs makes a bold statement: we are here, and we will occupy every inch of the space around us.

The oversized sweaters in this collection are not mere clothing—they are objects of art. Jumbo-stuffed and tentacular, they add volume and intrigue, transforming the wearer into a sculptural figure. These garments serve as a visual metaphor for resilience and strength, rejecting the notion that fashion should ever be constricting or limiting. Instead, Jacobs’ pieces offer room to breathe, to move, and to exist on a larger scale, reinforcing the theme of taking up space in a world that often seeks to shrink individuality.

In true Marc Jacobs fashion, the collection also includes a selection of sequined ball gowns cut to exaggerated proportions that hark back to the avant-garde work of Rei Kawakubo. These gowns seem to be defying gravity and conventional beauty, shifting away from wearable couture towards a more conceptual interpretation of fashion. The enormous sequins and geometric shapes turn these dresses into moving sculptures, and in their formality, they make a statement about both defiance and elegance. Here, Jacobs leans into his ability to create fashion that goes beyond wearability, making garments that are not just clothing but works of art that challenge the status quo.

“Marc Jacobs’ AW22 collection is a vibrant celebration of resilience, embracing oversized silhouettes and lively colors to inspire confidence and individuality. His designs encourage us to stand tall, take up space, and move forward with optimism in an ever-changing world.”

All clothing by Marc Jacobs.

In the world of AW22, even the accessories refuse to follow traditional norms. The handbags in this collection are so oversized they could easily double as hammocks, further pushing the idea of excess and opulence. These bags symbolize a playful luxury, an invitation to indulge and embrace absurdity. They are not just functional items but bold statements in their own right, offering a sense of space and grandeur. Through these accessories, Jacobs taps into a sense of exaggerated extravagance, creating an ironic yet empowering commentary on consumerism and the freedom to go beyond the limits.

Jacobs’ exploration of materials also takes on a life of its own in AW22. Fabrics such as glass, paper, plaster, plastic, rubber, and denim transform everyday textures into something far more experimental. These diverse materials serve as metaphors for the fragmentation of our modern world—each one distinctive, yet capable of coming together to create something powerful and cohesive. By fusing unconventional materials, Jacobs reflects the complexity of our current reality, and in doing so, demonstrates how fashion can serve as both a commentary on and a coping mechanism for the world’s many contradictions.

One of the most interesting elements in Jacobs’ collection is his use of tinfoil hats, transformed from simple headscarves. This may seem like a whimsical nod to conspiracy theories, but it also reflects a broader cultural critique. The tinfoil hats evoke the increasing prevalence of conspiracy-driven ideologies, a subtle nod to the divisive political rhetoric that has dominated the internet. By incorporating these hats, Jacobs is pointing a finger at the cultural landscape, using fashion as a lens through which to explore how paranoia and distrust have seeped into the mainstream.

All clothing by Marc Jacobs.

The inclusion of wipe-clean, almost kinky Bo-Peep dresses adds yet another layer of intrigue to the collection. These dresses, which play with innocence and rebellion in equal measure, are a departure from the expected. Their playful yet provocative nature reflects Jacobs’ ability to turn convention on its head. Through this unexpected element, Jacobs reminds us that fashion, even in the midst of global upheaval, can still be playful, subversive, and liberating. These dresses offer a sense of whimsical escape from reality while still holding a deeper, almost cheeky, commentary on the societal constraints placed on women.

Jacobs’ AW22 collection straddles the line between art and reality, blurring these boundaries to make a statement about the role of fashion in contemporary culture. His designs go beyond mere aesthetics, carrying with them an inherent meaning that reflects the struggles and triumphs of the current moment. By pushing the boundaries of what fashion can be, Jacobs asks his audience to look deeper, to consider how these garments reflect both personal and collective experiences. In this way, the collection isn’t just about what’s on the runway; it’s about what those clothes represent in the broader context of the world.

At its core, Jacobs’ AW22 collection represents a form of political resistance. Each oversized garment, each playful accessory, and each provocative design sends a message that, despite the chaos of the outside world, fashion can still be a tool for personal empowerment. By embracing space, excess, and defiance, Jacobs creates a world where fashion isn’t about fitting in—it’s about standing out and asserting your right to exist on your own terms. In a time when rights are being questioned and voices are being silenced, Jacobs’ fashion refuses to shrink into the background.

All clothing by Marc Jacobs.

Jacobs’ collection invites us to think about the role of fashion in shaping cultural conversations. By drawing from art, philosophy, and political discourse, Jacobs shows how fashion can transcend its traditional role as mere clothing. His work is not just about fabric and silhouette—it’s about making a statement, starting a conversation, and offering a space for individuals to express themselves in a world that often tries to stifle those expressions. Jacobs invites us to use fashion as a means to engage, resist, and ultimately thrive in uncertain times.

As the world faces uncertainty, Marc Jacobs’ AW22 collection stands as a testament to the power of fashion as both resistance and hope. His designs remind us that, in the face of adversity, we have the power to create, to express, and to demand space. With his larger-than-life silhouettes, bright colors, and thought-provoking materials, Jacobs invites us to reclaim the world and our place within it—making a bold statement that, no matter how chaotic the world may be, we will continue to take up space.

Text by
Kyrie Carlo

Fashion by
Marc Jacobs

Posted
May 1, 2022

Text by
Kyrie Carlo

Fashion by
Marc Jacobs

August 9, 2018

Last season, Marc Jacobs’ vision of a post-atomic glamazonia had models whipped-up in frayed monastic skirts, shredded column dresses, and hulking duvet jackets. It was an austere and threatening outlook, with Bella, Gigi, and Anok standing statuesque, as if a wind had battered fabric against their bodies. But, as Jacobs returns to the runway for AW22, the designer appears to be looking towards a more positive future, swapping a washed-out colour palette for baby pinks, turquoises, lavenders, and limes.

All clothing by Marc Jacobs.

The same built-up silhouette emerged, swamping the body in bulbous lumps and amorphous growths fashioned from wrap-around sleeves and bunched-up bustles, though it felt more embattled than nihilistic, with this season’s models in harsh undercuts and towering mary jane platforms. In an accompanying release, the designer quoted the German philosopher Friedrich Nietzsche, saying “we share our choices in contrast to the ongoing brutality and ugliness of a world beyond our insulated but not impermeable walls. We have art in order not to die of the truth.” It’s hard not to read this in relation to the recession of Roe v Wade and the threat the decision has posed on other hard-won rights, like contraception and gay marriage.

All clothing by Marc Jacobs.

With Jacobs producing high-voltage fashion both despite, and in spite of, the news, the collection feels like a cue to take-up space. Sweaters were jumbo-stuffed and tenticular, sequined ball gowns were cut to Kawakubo-esque proportions, while handbags were so large they could probably double as a hammock. His fabrics ran the gamut of glass, paper, plaster, plastic, rubber, and denim, transforming headscarves into tinfoil hats – a nod perhaps to the conservative and conspiratorial internet thinking that has dominated mainstream politics – and wipe-clean, almost kinky Bo-Peep dresses. To see the rest of Jacobs’ AW22 collection, click through the gallery above.

Art Design Fashion Marc Jacobs Photography style Unique Perspectives

Underlined

Discovering inspiration alongside the artist Luke James as he unveils his eagerly awaited album, “to feel love/d.”

Read time 5 minutes

Text by
Kylar Ashton

Photography by
Ben Abarbanel.

Fashion by
Guvanch Agajumayev

Posted
June 19, 2022

As the world eagerly awaits the release of his highly anticipated album, "to feel love/d," Luke James, the visionary artist known for his soulful melodies and captivating performances, invites us into his creative sanctuary.

Speaking on the new release, Luke says, “This album is a body of work that is a culmination of experiences. [it’s] music that I’ve lived with for a while. I like to think of this album as more of a bridge into my new endeavors being an independent artist.” “To feel love/d” marks Luke’s much-awaited return to his widely successful music career following a two-year hiatus to focus on his work in acting. The three singles from the album, entitled “go girl” ft. BJ The Chicago Kid and Ro James, “all of your love,” and “blow” took the music streaming platforms by force, including features on massive playlists such as Spotify’s New Music Friday, Are & Be, and rotation on Amazon’s Global R&B platform.

Lukes’ credits are as vast as they are impressive. Throughout his career, he has written songs for the likes of Justin Bieber, Snoh Aalegra, and Chris Brown, to name a few. He has also performed alongside the late Prince and is one of the very few artists to ever open for Beyoncé, during her Mrs. Carter Show World Tour. Luke received his first Grammy nomination for Best R&B Performance for his hit song “I Want You” (from his first mixtape “#Luke”) and received his second Grammy nomination for Best R&B Song for “Options” ft. Rick Ross (from his self-titled debut album “Luke James”).

On the television front, it was announced that Luke is set to star in the third season of the hit Showtime drama series, “The Chi.” Created by Lena Waithe, the series follows the lives of a group of people in the South Side neighborhood of Chicago after a fateful turn of events sends shock waves through the community but also connects them in unexpected ways.

Luke also recently starred in the smash hit Universal Pictures’ comedy “Little,” opposite Issa Rae, Regina Hall, and Marsai Martin and is well-known for his starring role in the musical drama series “Star” on FOX, created and helmed by Oscar-nominated director Lee Daniels. Additional acting credits for Luke include recurring arcs on HBO’s “Insecure,” USA’s “Unsolved: The Murders of Tupac and the Notorious B.I.G.,” and his role as R&B singer Johnny Gill on BET’s “The Bobby Brown Story.” Luke recently spoke to Slick to discuss his biggest adrenaline rush, his philosophy on life, and the plans he has in store

Slick: Who is Luke James in five words?

Luke: Loving, Honorable, Nasty, Happy, Sad…. Okay, let’s see what else is there?

Slick: What’s the first thing you do in the morning?

Luke: I guess a check, diagnostic check, you know, self-diagnostics. I just feel my body, fill my mind, my spirit and I project gratitude for waking up another day. Thank you, God!

Slick: What’s your philosophy on life?

Luke: Don’t worry be happy. Yeah, not to be cliche. My mother used to always say, don’t worry. I think I’m at a place where I want to be. So yeah, don’t worry, be happy because everything’s gonna work out for sure.

Slick: What do people always misunderstand about you?

Luke: I think I’m finding that people think that I am somewhat of an extrovert, I guess. Maybe I act the part well, sometimes. I think my career kind of helps me out of my introverted ways because I want to enjoy life and all the different aspects of it and sometimes my innate ways don’t allow that pleasure. My career helps me get out. It helps me meet people. It helps me get into new ideas, you know, keeps my mind open.

“With ‘to feel love/d,’ I aim to create a sonic journey where emotions flow freely, melodies captivate, and every listener finds solace in the music.” – Luke James

Slick: What gives you the biggest adrenaline rush?

Luke: My biggest adrenaline rush, I’d say has been on the stage. It’s a rush like no other. I can come off stage and have cut myself and not even realize I did until the next day, you know, my adrenaline took over…

Slick: What do you think about when you’re by yourself?

Luke: A lot of things rather personal… I think about work, you know, in the sense of like work, as everyone else may think of work. I find pleasure in what I do so when I’m talking about work, I’m talking about my passions which happen to make me money which turns into work. It is something that I must do to continue making a living. I enjoy it so I guess to answer your question I think about creativity. I think about God, I think about love, I think about the world. I try my best to think about happy things…

Slick: What qualities do you admire about yourself?

Luke: One of the qualities I admire about myself is my really strong willpower. I am constantly reminded of my willpower. So yeah, I truly admire that about myself. If there’s something I want, truly want, I work my ass off to get it, to have it. It seems like everything around me just conform to enable me to have whatever it is I’m in search of. I’m not sitting here saying or acting like I’m a guru. I’m still figuring that thing out too.

Slick: What is the weirdest thing you would consider about yourself?

Luke: The weirdest thing about me, I don’t know. I think maybe someone else may have to say what that is. I don’t particularly find anything I do weird. I’m interesting (lol).

Slick: What are the three things you value most about a person?

Luke: A person’s empathy, the person’s intellect, and their spirituality, you know something in that realm. There are so many things fucking three is just not enough…

Slick: Tell us about any struggle you’ve overcome.

Luke: Seeing myself for who I am, acknowledging it, adhering to it, and strengthening it. Being happy with the process of becoming better, a better me. Falling in love with that process. It’s a constant. I believe it to be a struggle that just about everyone goes through.

Slick: If you could tell your former self one thing, what would it be?

Luke: Wake up early, create, create, create, stay open, be a sponge. Don’t worry. Leave negative people and things alone. Let them go. You may love them but you can love them from afar. Enjoy yourself, enjoy the moment, and don’t listen to anyone but yourself. Stay centered. There’s going to be a lot of trying things that will come your way. Be still and push forward. Everything will be alright. Yep, that’s that. I hope that all made sense.

Photography by Ben Abarbanel. Styling by Guvanch Agajumayev. Grooming by Travis Lester.Casting by Andre’ Adkins.