Tracing the Unstoppable Surge of Black Fashion Designers Shaping and Redefining the Global Landscape

Read time 5 minutes

Feben | Rafael Pavarotti

With boundless creativity, these trendsetters redefine the rules and champion cultural narratives, propelling the industry into the future.

In a remarkable shift within the fashion realm, a rising wave of Black designers is leaving an enduring imprint on the global sartorial scene. With their origins spanning diverse continents and cultural backgrounds, these visionary creators are not merely crafting garments; they are weaving compelling stories and social narratives into the fabric of fashion. This transformative movement mirrors the industry’s evolving journey towards inclusivity and diversity, where authenticity and cultural resonance reign supreme.

Across runways and fashion capitals, these trailblazing designers are challenging conventional norms and pushing the boundaries of creativity. Their designs serve as powerful vehicles for self-expression and cultural celebration, resonating with audiences worldwide. As the fashion landscape evolves, these six designers stand at the forefront, reshaping the narrative and paving the way for a more representative and inclusive future, where every voice is heard and every story is celebrated.

From Kingston to Johannesburg, their influence knows no bounds as they redefine what it means to be a fashion designer in today’s world. Through their bold choices and unwavering commitment to authenticity, they are not only making fashion more diverse but also inspiring a new generation of creatives to embrace their heritage and unique perspectives. As we celebrate their contributions, we recognize that their impact extends far beyond the runway, leaving an indelible mark on the cultural tapestry of our time.

Theophilio

At the helm of Theophilio stands Edvin Thompson, a visionary designer whose work resonates deeply with his Jamaican heritage. Thompson’s unique perspective infuses contemporary fashion with a rich tapestry of cultural influences, reflecting his upbringing across diverse U.S. cities. His designs go beyond mere garments; they serve as powerful narratives, weaving together social commentary and personal stories. With meticulous attention to detail and an unwavering commitment to celebrating Jamaican culture, Thompson has garnered acclaim from influential figures like Keke Palmer and Sha’Carri Richardson, earning him the prestigious title of American Emerging Designer of the Year at the CFDA Fashion Awards.

Within Theophilio’s creations, one can discern a profound connection to Thompson’s roots and a desire to amplify marginalized voices in the fashion industry. Each piece tells a story, serving as a testament to the resilience and vibrancy of Jamaican culture. Thompson’s ability to seamlessly blend tradition with modernity has not only captivated the fashion elite but has also sparked meaningful conversations about identity and representation. As he continues to push boundaries and challenge norms, Thompson stands as a beacon of inspiration for aspiring designers seeking to honor their heritage while making a lasting impact on the world stage.

Through Theophilio, Edvin Thompson has not only carved out a space for himself in the competitive fashion landscape but has also opened doors for other Black designers to shine. His commitment to authenticity and cultural pride serves as a reminder that fashion is not just about aesthetics; it’s about storytelling and empowerment. As we witness Thompson’s ascent, we are reminded of the transformative power of fashion to shape narratives, challenge perceptions, and pave the way for a more inclusive and diverse industry.

Maximilian

Maximilian Davis’s eponymous label is a testament to his Trinidadian-Jamaican roots, despite being headquartered in England. Through his debut collection with Fashion East, Davis orchestrated a kaleidoscope of colors and personal narratives that resonated with icons like Rihanna and Kim Kardashian. With an unwavering dedication to storytelling through fashion, Davis is on a perpetual journey of pushing boundaries and exploring new horizons. As he prepares to unveil his latest collection with Fashion East, the world eagerly anticipates the next chapter in his captivating narrative.

At the heart of Maximilian Davis’s designs lies a profound connection to his cultural heritage and a commitment to amplifying underrepresented voices in the fashion industry. Each garment serves as a canvas for storytelling, weaving together threads of identity and personal experience. Davis’s ability to seamlessly blend tradition with innovation has garnered him widespread acclaim and positioned him as a trailblazer in the world of fashion. As he continues to challenge norms and redefine the boundaries of creativity, Davis’s impact on the industry is destined to be profound and enduring.

In this dynamic era of fashion, Black designers are not just making waves – they’re shaping the very tides of creativity, redefining trends, and amplifying cultural narratives with every stitch.

Head of State

At the forefront of fashion innovation stands Taefeek Abijako, the creative mind behind Head of State. With a bold vision, Abijako challenges traditional notions of menswear and womenswear by infusing his designs with inspiration drawn from literature and his Nigerian heritage. Through meticulous attention to detail and subtle cultural references, Abijako offers a refreshing take on contemporary fashion that captivates a global audience.

Within the designs of Head of State, one can discern a harmonious blend of tradition and modernity, resulting in garments that are both timeless and relevant. Abijako’s commitment to celebrating his Nigerian roots shines through in every stitch, creating pieces that resonate with authenticity and cultural pride. As he continues to redefine the boundaries of fashion, Abijako’s influence extends far beyond the runway, inspiring a new generation of designers to embrace their heritage and push the boundaries of creativity.

Kenneth Ize

Kenneth Ize’s eponymous label serves as a vibrant tribute to the rich heritage of West African craftsmanship. From his factory in Lagos, Nigeria, Ize sources bold patterns and vibrant textiles that form the foundation of his striking designs. Despite his Austrian upbringing, Ize’s deep connection to his Nigerian roots is palpable in every stitch, paying homage to centuries-old traditions with a modern twist. His unwavering dedication to celebrating African craftsmanship has earned him widespread acclaim, including a coveted finalist position for the prestigious LVMH Prize.

With each collection, Kenneth Ize bridges cultures and continents, weaving together narratives that transcend borders. His cross-cultural pieces have garnered attention from luminaries such as Beyoncé and Naomi Campbell, cementing his status as a global ambassador for African heritage. Through his innovative approach to design, Ize continues to shine a spotlight on the unparalleled artistry of West African craftsmanship, inspiring a new generation of designers to embrace their cultural heritage and celebrate the beauty of diversity on the world stage.

Kenneth Ize’s impact extends far beyond the realm of fashion, serving as a catalyst for social and economic empowerment in Nigeria and beyond. By establishing his factory in Lagos, Ize has created opportunities for local artisans and craftsmen, revitalizing traditional industries and fostering sustainable growth within the community. Through his commitment to ethical production practices and fair labor standards, Ize sets a precedent for responsible fashion that prioritizes people and planet. As he continues to champion African craftsmanship on the world stage, Kenneth Ize exemplifies the transformative power of fashion as a force for positive change.

3.PARADIS

At the intersection of pop culture and streetwear lies Emeric Tchatchoua’s visionary label, 3.PARADIS. Based in the vibrant city of Montreal, Canada, the brand serves as a melting pot of influences, blending urban grit with high-fashion sensibilities. Tchatchoua’s designs offer a fresh perspective on luxury fashion, infusing youthful energy and creativity into every collection.

Rooted in the ethos of rebellion and cultural evolution, 3.PARADIS challenges traditional notions of luxury, redefining it as a reflection of individuality and authenticity. Each garment embodies a sense of joy and equilibrium, striking a harmonious balance between self-expression and sartorial innovation. With its bold aesthetics and avant-garde approach, the brand captivates audiences worldwide, inspiring a new generation of fashion enthusiasts to embrace their unique style.

As 3.PARADIS continues to push boundaries and break free from conventions, it remains steadfast in its commitment to celebrating diversity and fostering creativity. Through its fusion of diverse influences and unwavering dedication to craftsmanship, the brand embodies the spirit of modern luxury, inviting individuals to embark on a journey of self-discovery and sartorial self-expression.

Text by
Kaden Mason

Photography by
Mika Kailes

Posted
June 5, 2022

Text by
Kaden Mason

Photography by
Mika Kailes

August 9, 2018

3.PARADIS Head of State Kenneth Ize Maximilian Rafael Pavarotti Theophilio

Underlined

Discovering inspiration alongside the artist Luke James as he unveils his eagerly awaited album, “to feel love/d.”

Read time 5 minutes

Text by
Kylar Ashton

Photography by
Ben Abarbanel.

Fashion by
Guvanch Agajumayev

Posted
June 19, 2022

As the world eagerly awaits the release of his highly anticipated album, "to feel love/d," Luke James, the visionary artist known for his soulful melodies and captivating performances, invites us into his creative sanctuary.

Speaking on the new release, Luke says, “This album is a body of work that is a culmination of experiences. [it’s] music that I’ve lived with for a while. I like to think of this album as more of a bridge into my new endeavors being an independent artist.” “To feel love/d” marks Luke’s much-awaited return to his widely successful music career following a two-year hiatus to focus on his work in acting. The three singles from the album, entitled “go girl” ft. BJ The Chicago Kid and Ro James, “all of your love,” and “blow” took the music streaming platforms by force, including features on massive playlists such as Spotify’s New Music Friday, Are & Be, and rotation on Amazon’s Global R&B platform.

Lukes’ credits are as vast as they are impressive. Throughout his career, he has written songs for the likes of Justin Bieber, Snoh Aalegra, and Chris Brown, to name a few. He has also performed alongside the late Prince and is one of the very few artists to ever open for Beyoncé, during her Mrs. Carter Show World Tour. Luke received his first Grammy nomination for Best R&B Performance for his hit song “I Want You” (from his first mixtape “#Luke”) and received his second Grammy nomination for Best R&B Song for “Options” ft. Rick Ross (from his self-titled debut album “Luke James”).

On the television front, it was announced that Luke is set to star in the third season of the hit Showtime drama series, “The Chi.” Created by Lena Waithe, the series follows the lives of a group of people in the South Side neighborhood of Chicago after a fateful turn of events sends shock waves through the community but also connects them in unexpected ways.

Luke also recently starred in the smash hit Universal Pictures’ comedy “Little,” opposite Issa Rae, Regina Hall, and Marsai Martin and is well-known for his starring role in the musical drama series “Star” on FOX, created and helmed by Oscar-nominated director Lee Daniels. Additional acting credits for Luke include recurring arcs on HBO’s “Insecure,” USA’s “Unsolved: The Murders of Tupac and the Notorious B.I.G.,” and his role as R&B singer Johnny Gill on BET’s “The Bobby Brown Story.” Luke recently spoke to Slick to discuss his biggest adrenaline rush, his philosophy on life, and the plans he has in store

Slick: Who is Luke James in five words?

Luke: Loving, Honorable, Nasty, Happy, Sad…. Okay, let’s see what else is there?

Slick: What’s the first thing you do in the morning?

Luke: I guess a check, diagnostic check, you know, self-diagnostics. I just feel my body, fill my mind, my spirit and I project gratitude for waking up another day. Thank you, God!

Slick: What’s your philosophy on life?

Luke: Don’t worry be happy. Yeah, not to be cliche. My mother used to always say, don’t worry. I think I’m at a place where I want to be. So yeah, don’t worry, be happy because everything’s gonna work out for sure.

Slick: What do people always misunderstand about you?

Luke: I think I’m finding that people think that I am somewhat of an extrovert, I guess. Maybe I act the part well, sometimes. I think my career kind of helps me out of my introverted ways because I want to enjoy life and all the different aspects of it and sometimes my innate ways don’t allow that pleasure. My career helps me get out. It helps me meet people. It helps me get into new ideas, you know, keeps my mind open.

“With ‘to feel love/d,’ I aim to create a sonic journey where emotions flow freely, melodies captivate, and every listener finds solace in the music.” – Luke James

Slick: What gives you the biggest adrenaline rush?

Luke: My biggest adrenaline rush, I’d say has been on the stage. It’s a rush like no other. I can come off stage and have cut myself and not even realize I did until the next day, you know, my adrenaline took over…

Slick: What do you think about when you’re by yourself?

Luke: A lot of things rather personal… I think about work, you know, in the sense of like work, as everyone else may think of work. I find pleasure in what I do so when I’m talking about work, I’m talking about my passions which happen to make me money which turns into work. It is something that I must do to continue making a living. I enjoy it so I guess to answer your question I think about creativity. I think about God, I think about love, I think about the world. I try my best to think about happy things…

Slick: What qualities do you admire about yourself?

Luke: One of the qualities I admire about myself is my really strong willpower. I am constantly reminded of my willpower. So yeah, I truly admire that about myself. If there’s something I want, truly want, I work my ass off to get it, to have it. It seems like everything around me just conform to enable me to have whatever it is I’m in search of. I’m not sitting here saying or acting like I’m a guru. I’m still figuring that thing out too.

Slick: What is the weirdest thing you would consider about yourself?

Luke: The weirdest thing about me, I don’t know. I think maybe someone else may have to say what that is. I don’t particularly find anything I do weird. I’m interesting (lol).

Slick: What are the three things you value most about a person?

Luke: A person’s empathy, the person’s intellect, and their spirituality, you know something in that realm. There are so many things fucking three is just not enough…

Slick: Tell us about any struggle you’ve overcome.

Luke: Seeing myself for who I am, acknowledging it, adhering to it, and strengthening it. Being happy with the process of becoming better, a better me. Falling in love with that process. It’s a constant. I believe it to be a struggle that just about everyone goes through.

Slick: If you could tell your former self one thing, what would it be?

Luke: Wake up early, create, create, create, stay open, be a sponge. Don’t worry. Leave negative people and things alone. Let them go. You may love them but you can love them from afar. Enjoy yourself, enjoy the moment, and don’t listen to anyone but yourself. Stay centered. There’s going to be a lot of trying things that will come your way. Be still and push forward. Everything will be alright. Yep, that’s that. I hope that all made sense.

Photography by Ben Abarbanel. Styling by Guvanch Agajumayev. Grooming by Travis Lester.Casting by Andre’ Adkins.